Prada’s 3-Button Suit

I must admit that I’m a big fan of Miuccia Prada. I’ve found that whatever she does for menswear or womenswear tends to make a lasting impression. Her concepts and ideas are typically a few seasons ahead and trickle their way down to mass consumption or influence at some stage. Behold the new statement for Spring 11 menswear: The 3-Button Suit.

Set to a youthful tailored collection, these jackets are obviously slim-fit, almost to the point of looking nipped. But 3-buttons? We haven’t seen this in menswear in a very long time, making Prada’s comeback of the style looking fresh though perhaps a bit surprising. However, Z by Zegna also featured 3-button jackets, although much more relaxed. While the notion of a 3-button jacket or suit may seem radical now, I’m sure some interpretations will work their way into mainstream menswear give or take a few seasons.

Emporio Armani Is Hot Like Mexico

Emporio Armani’s Spring 11 show was quite the aggressive and somewhat erotic flash of skin and black leather. Bermuda shorts worn over meggings (yes, still) are a more conservative expression in comparison to sleeveless jackets, slick snakeskin patterns and silky Hugh Hefner pants worn with blazers over bare-chested models. In case there was any doubt Emporio Armani’s Alejandro Lady Gaga reference, a clip of the video played during the show’s finale.

Liberation Par Karl

Just arrived in NY from Paris and I have to thank Air France for providing me with a free copy of today’s Liberation newspaper, which Karl Lagerfeld guest edited. While I didn’t exactly read it cover to cover, the Kaiser’s illustrations throughout the 24-page paper have an impressive voice across all sections from economy to soccer. Oh and of course the Coca-Cola Light by Karl Lagerfeld ads are in there too. Which reminds me that I have a very special Karl Coke delivery coming to the NY office tomorrow.

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Bikers, Military? Here To Stay.

As we actively post runway from Milan this week (as well as Fast Track trends), I would like to highlight a few familiar hits that return from last season. While some may perceive menswear as slower trend-wise than womenswear, menswear collections are actually quite smart in that they keep best sellers going with new variations, all the while staying true to the brand’s own look. Two big trends that come to mind which we’re seeing on the Spring 11 runways include Bikers and Military.

Bikers, in the most obvious example, are back as biker jackets. Christopher Bailey at Burberry applies the notion of tough biker guys as his chief inspiration point, complete with studded jackets and moto pants. Other designers take biker reference to mean the asymmetrical zip on a jacket, which is applied in updated styles such as softer jackets or vests. Burberry even has some of its own soft biker styles. It’s a trend that is currently happening at retail which is sure to continue.

Burberry, Spring 11

Burberry, Spring 11

John Varvatos, Spring 11

Frankie Morello, Spring 11

Military is another such reference that we see applied in a similar manner to biker jackets. It doesn’t have to be a total head-to-toe look (and really isn’t so far anyway this season). There are countless elements in which to express military – from epaulets to flap pockets, trench coats and button series. Burberry also hits high marks in the military category (it is their heritage, is it not), but we also see military influence seep in at John Varvatos and Cornelliani.

Burberry, Spring 11

Burberry, Spring 11

John Varvatos, Spring 11

Cornelliani, Spring 11

Polo’s Legends Clinic: Talk to Boris Becker Live Today

Polo Ralph Lauren has one hell of a marketing team, and has been at the forefront of technological advancements like their touch-screen store windows which launched a few years back.

Now they have a concept called “merchantainment” which blends the world of being a retail merchant and entertainment. Clever guys! The newest development in merchantainment involves Polo’s online Legends Clinic which will feature 3-time Wimbledon champ Boris Becker live on ralphlauren.com to answer tennis related questions TODAY at 11am EST. The interactive tennis clinic with Becker will run for 1 hour. With 5 hours and change to go (from time of this post), there are already 47 questions lined up.

Becker has had a long relationship with Polo, starting in Wimbledon 2007 when he was the official brand ambassador and wore Polo exclusively for the tournament. But today, this type of brand ambassadorship is smarter and wiser. While not all tennis fans wear Polo, any tennis fanatic is probably interested in hearing what Boris Becker has to say about his career, game strategy, etc. I bet there will be a lot of people who log on today for the clinic, and that in turn will probably drive a lot of traffic to at least view, if not make purchases from Ralph Lauren’s Wimbledon Collection.

There’s only one small glitch – the links within the Wimbledon Collection to “Shop Men” and “Shop Women” aren’t working at the moment. Come on Polo, you have 5 hours and counting!

The Cobrashop

Mark the “Cobrasnake” Hunter has done his part in elevating Los Angeles culture with his nightlife photography. Now he has his own shop – for reals! The Cobrashop opened to the public yesterday and is a wild and crazy mix of all things Mark.. from items from his Cobrasnake x RVCA line, limited edition and past collection pieces from Jeremy Scott and Shepard Fairey to a bunch of kitschy thrift items. There’s art installations (check the Cobrasnake mural), oh and Todd Selby made a guest appearance and signed copies of his latest book there too. The temporary shop is in the Hollywood & Highland Center (yes unexpected but also kind of Mark in that way) and will remain open through September.

Fun right? On the website, there are snapshots of hipsters in the garb that’s sold in the Cobrashop, which add a nice element to the street snapshots-meet-retail concept. Once a street photographer earns a strong enough following for his style, the next step is inevitably brand collabs and/or a kick-ass retail outlet. I’d imagine there will be a lot of snapshots taken this summer at the Cobrashop, perhaps a tome is already in the making.

Live From Milan, Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein is the next brand to expose a runway presentation to the masses. This Saturday, the company will feature its Spring 2011 show on the LED screen in Milan’s Piazza Duomo. While the runway show will take place earlier in the day, the projection will be aired at 7:30pm; perhaps not to interfere with any World Cup games.

This is not the first time we’ve seen runway broadcasts for the public. Last season in New York, Alexander Wang projected his Fall 10 show on the American Eagle Outfitters billboard in Times Square.

While Wang’s projection generated a lot of buzz and probably confusion from tourists, I think Calvin Klein’s initiative might make a bit more sense since it’s a household name as opposed to Wang, who is still building his empire. While I’m sure only a very small percentage of viewers will actually buy into any designer collection, Calvin Klein has SO MANY licensed products. I’m sure the brand exposure on an LED screen in Piazza Duomo will ultimately be great for products like fragrances or underwear, without the mention of either on the big screen.

Garden of Edun

Edun is probably my favorite go-to eco/socially conscious label. From the very beginning of all things green to a deeper meaning and social initiatives to aid Africa, Ali Hewson and her rocker hubby Bono have been leaders in the market. Now they’ve got a few new tricks up their sleeves.

First, they launched a new website, and although it still seems to have some kinks – as in I can’t find a way to shop, you can view the lookbook which features models set to African backdrops, and as you scroll over their bodies/clothing, you see video shorts of natives mixed with the models in Edun clothing. I think it makes for a nice touch of transparency, both to the collection and the initiative.

Now onto tees. The Kenya Kids project features super cute hand-drawn designs from students in Kenya. 100% of the proceeds go to funding for school lunch and health care.

Another great initiative is Edun’s “Grow To Sew” t-shirt line, which launched last week in Barney’s New York. The t-shirts are both inspired by Africa and created exclusively in Africa, yet another initiative to make African apparel production a sustainable industry. The tees retail for $50 and 100% of the proceeds go to the Conservation Cotton Initiative in Uganda. A truly fashionable cause to buy into!

World Cup Fever

You’ll have to excuse the delay in this post. I had every intent to get this out before the World Cup kicked off yesterday, but seeing that I live in France and France was playing in the 2nd game, I had to attend to an event. The score was 0-0, how very French! Anyhow, the world’s most popular sporting event (not exactly mine) has numerous apparel collaborations to celebrate World Cup 2010.

The big guns – Adidas and Nike have the event covered from all angles from specific websites to “kits” or “packs” consisting of World Cup product by city or country. Today marks the launch of 4 regional adidas Consortum adiCup packs for Berlin, London, New York and Tokyo. The packs consist of a bag, Votary trainers and a regionally designed jersey. There is also a special pack to be released for the World Cup finals. Nike’s World Cup Team Kits (featured in Fashion Snoop’s Magazine section) feature hoodies or track jackets and footwear designed by artists for the USA, South Africa, France, the Netherlands, Brazil and England. Another point goes to Nike for their Stadium concept.

adiCup Packs

Nike’s World Cup Team Kits

Umbro launched The World Champion’s Collection featuring seven nations who have previously won the World Cup. Like Nike, they employed an artist slant to the polo shirts, which were done in collaboration with graffiti artists, cartoonists, tattoo designers, record label owners, illustrators and club night innovators for each country.

Umbro’s World Champion’s Collection

And speaking of polos (and slightly more conservative World Cup support) Fred Perry got in on the action with the World Cup Edition Polo range. The line of 12 polos represents the colors in the national team kit for the “top teams” and features the country’s name below an oversized laurel.

Fred Perry’s World Cup Edition Polos

Those looking for something slightly more nostalgic and less representative of soccer jerseys, perhaps the Football Legends collection from French Connection is for you. A tight line-up of 3 t-shirts feature black and white photographs of Pelè, Bobby Moore and George Best.

Football Legends by French Connection

And now for something unexpected for the fashion set. There’s an actual fashion-meets-soccer magazine called SEPP, which is released every 2 years for the World Cup or Euro Cup. SEPP is edited by Markus Ebner from Achtung, and it’s apparent that his ties with designers like Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld and friends prove valuable for the magazine’s 2010 edition. The magazine commissions designers to create designs, sketches or shoots related to all things soccer. Goal!

Denim Therapy by Tavex

As Fashion Snoops subscribers will soon be able to see in our Denim by Premiere Vision exhibitor report, the guys over at Tavex have some pretty interesting technological advancements going on. By definition, Denim Therapy is a revolutionary fabric development that generates a sense of wellness and calm through a bio-ceramic complex. It appears as a print on the inside of the fabric. If that’s a little too techy for you, the results include stimulated muscle tone, equilibrium improvement and an energized body.

The interesting thing here is that Tavex actually tested this concept last season (for Spring 11), and due to a great response, they expanded the offerings for Fall 11/12. While the denim brands that have picked up Denim Therapy fabric remain top secret (even to me and believe me I pushed..), what Tavex did tell me is that the brands that are picking it up are in the youth driven or active sports markets. If brands position this new technology properly, it could become a big deal. I’m thinking some kind of exclusivity or limited editions..