Looks like somebody’s been playing FarmVille lately. Junya Watanabe draws unmistakable reference to the farmer, with a practical workwear standpoint that remains forward. To start with, overalls were everywhere, which add variety to the all-in-one category previously filled with industrial-style jumpsuits. I could easily envision
hipster guys wearing these, especially during summer festivals.
Then there’s also patchwork, which comes in strong as a detail on shirts and jeans. Pieced construction is also noted with contrasting materials.
Kris Van Assche
Because menswear will never tire of a classic, just the slightest bit of tweaking is necessary. Kris Van Assche featured polos as a must-have basic, in both solid and striped varieties. The difference here is that the silhouette is slightly oversized – just enough to bring in newness without going overboard on volume.
Louis Vuitton, Margiela, Viktor & Rolf
In case you were wondering, bomber jackets are just as trend-worthy in Paris as they were in Milan. The only difference is that you could arguably call them by a different sportif name.. baseball or golf jackets are both totally game.
Louis Vuitton, Adam Kimmel, Louis Vuitton
Dries Van Noten, Dreis Van Noten, YSL, Dries Van Noten, Adam Kimmel
Here they are again. Volume shorts show up on Paris runways, with pleats quickly becoming a new detail.
Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens
Volume pants also make a big impression, spanning both baggy and balloon shapes. Drawstrings are optional.
Louis Vuitton, Yohji Yamamoto
Also new are pajama pants, which recall the relaxed silhouettes of Milan but push the notion of PJ dressing forward.
Dries Van Noten
While Milan labels tended to feature patterns on shirts, in Paris it’s the return of a classic. The White Shirt makes a strong impression worn alone or layered. Elongated styles present a new silhouette direction, which we’ve seen more recently in knitwear.
Yohji Yamamoto, Christian Lacroix, Yohji Yamamoto
Adam Kimmel, Louis Vuitton, Viktor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton, YSL
Last week Milan S12 menswear brought us several unique suiting options. In Paris, the short suit is a highlight at luxury brands. If this sounds familiar, it is. The short suit was introduced 2 years ago and positioned as a forward, novelty suiting option. Set to relaxed silhouettes, it has now become widely adapted and is more likely to show up at retailers.
In Milan, there were parkas. In Paris, Junya Watanabe takes the parka (and anorak) forward in bright hues, while opening the door for rain gear.
Dries Van Noten
A full assortment of rain coats are introduced at Dries Van Noten, with many styles set to nylon with optional utility details and contrast trim.
Dries Van Noten, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe