Overalls & Patchwork at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe

Looks like somebody’s been playing FarmVille lately. Junya Watanabe draws unmistakable reference to the farmer, with a practical workwear standpoint that remains forward. To start with, overalls were everywhere, which add variety to the all-in-one category previously filled with industrial-style jumpsuits. I could easily envision hipster guys wearing these, especially during summer festivals.

Junya Watanabe

Then there’s also patchwork, which comes in strong as a detail on shirts and jeans. Pieced construction is also noted with contrasting materials.

This One is for the Boys in the POLOs

Kris Van Assche

Because menswear will never tire of a classic, just the slightest bit of tweaking is necessary. Kris Van Assche featured polos as a must-have basic, in both solid and striped varieties. The difference here is that the silhouette is slightly oversized – just enough to bring in newness without going overboard on volume.

More Bomber Jackets in Paris

Louis Vuitton, Margiela, Viktor & Rolf

In case you were wondering, bomber jackets are just as trend-worthy in Paris as they were in Milan. The only difference is that you could arguably call them by a different sportif name.. baseball or golf jackets are both totally game.

Louis Vuitton, Adam Kimmel, Louis Vuitton

Pump Up the Volume

Dries Van Noten, Dreis Van Noten, YSL, Dries Van Noten, Adam Kimmel

Here they are again. Volume shorts show up on Paris runways, with pleats quickly becoming a new detail.

Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens

Volume pants also make a big impression, spanning both baggy and balloon shapes. Drawstrings are optional.

Louis Vuitton, Yohji Yamamoto

Also new are pajama pants, which recall the relaxed silhouettes of Milan but push the notion of PJ dressing forward.

The Great White Shirt

Dries Van Noten

While Milan labels tended to feature patterns on shirts, in Paris it’s the return of a classic. The White Shirt makes a strong impression worn alone or layered. Elongated styles present a new silhouette direction, which we’ve seen more recently in knitwear.

Yohji Yamamoto, Christian Lacroix, Yohji Yamamoto

More Suit Variety

Adam Kimmel, Louis Vuitton, Viktor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton, YSL

Last week Milan S12 menswear brought us several unique suiting options. In Paris, the short suit is a highlight at luxury brands. If this sounds familiar, it is. The short suit was introduced 2 years ago and positioned as a forward, novelty suiting option. Set to relaxed silhouettes, it has now become widely adapted and is more likely to show up at retailers.

Forecast for S12 Menswear? Rain.

Junya Watanabe

In Milan, there were parkas. In Paris, Junya Watanabe takes the parka (and anorak) forward in bright hues, while opening the door for rain gear.

Dries Van Noten

A full assortment of rain coats are introduced at Dries Van Noten, with many styles set to nylon with optional utility details and contrast trim.

Dries Van Noten, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe

Marled or Mesh?

Burberry, Jil Sander, Gucci

In addition to the other sweater trends I mentioned earlier this week, MARLED SWEATERS become a hit on the runway, especially at Jil Sander. Also on the knitwear front, Dolce & Gabbana introduce net-like OPENWORK. The look emulates a relaxed Riviera mood, reflective of many Milan collections for Spring 12.

Dolce & Gabbana

Along similar lines, MESH becomes an important material for the young men’s market, often signaling an athletic twist.

Dolce & Gabbana

Moncler

DSquared2

MUST-HAVE S12 Outerwear from Milan

Versace, D&G, D&G

Coming off of SO MANY OUTERWEAR OPTIONS for Fall 11, it’s fantastic to see that the momentum keeps going full speed ahead into Spring 12. So far in the Milan shows, BOMBER JACKETS are a HUGE deal (above and below).

Gucci, Neil Barrett, Gucci

What’s more is that bombers provide plenty of options for newness, ranging from brilliant colors and prints to sophisticated leathers and even quilting options. Speaking of options, where does master outerwear label Burberry stand?

Burberry

While Burberry had a full range of outerwear including oversized trench coats and a wealth of raincoats, the big takeaway is the PARKA. Yes we’ve seen it before (last season in fact), but Burberry is surely king in the parka assortment. Not to say that others haven’t followed suit.

Salvatore Ferragamo, DSquared2, Gucci

But now for yet another must-have of Spring 12. Introducing SUEDE OUTERWEAR. Below, Versace is keen on biker styles and even a perforated bomber.

Versace

Others also feature suede jackets and coats, proving that this Spring 12 material is the perfect match to outerwear.

John Varvatos, John Varvatos, Etro

Short Story, Lots of Volumes

Versace

Since the Spring 12 menswear season is in full gear, you might be wondering what’s new with shorts. The major direction featured on the Milan runways is volume shorts. Above, Versace does it best with a very commercial shape set to new materials and colors for added interest. Below, Calvin Klein also ups the newness factor with below-the-knee shorts that are equally big on volume.

Calvin Klein