One of my favorite details to come out of the Milan menswear shows was pieced construction. Yes, we’ve seen bits of this before – more recently in the form of leather inserts – but this time around there are more interesting pieced effects happening. In addition to mixed materials, we’re also seeing mixed patterns.
Z Zegna, Burberry, Neil Barrett
I also love pieced construction for sweaters, which gives a patchwork effect in the case of Corneliani below.
Corneliani, Burberry
Last season we saw double breasted blazers impact tailoring and this season they move forward as a key suit direction. Exquisitely crafted peak lapels are a highlighted detail on some looks.
Costume National, Corneliani, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo
Shearling outerwear is having a moment. The shearling coat was singled out as a key item in the Fall 11 Milan shows and I particularly like the shearling pea coat at Gucci, which blends 2 season must-haves into 1.
Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo
Along the same lines, shearling trim – specifically collars – were shown, which will surely impact the young men’s market. Alexander McQueen had some stand out shearling collars featured on wool jackets and double breasted blazers.
Ermanno Scervino, Alexander McQueen, Alexander McQueen
The 70s have been showing up on the Milan runways as a major decade of reference for Fall 11. Here’s a look at who did it best.
GUCCI
Leave it to Frida Giannini at Gucci to bring back the 70s in full swing. My favorite here were the slim flared pants which worked in both suiting and casual looks. Suede applications also push the look forward.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
And speaking of SUEDE – check out the suede pants at Ferragamo (there are also suede shirts). More important than that, I am loving the rust color palette.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
More rust hues were featured at Cavalli, where the 3-piece suit made an entrance and more suede and flared pants are featured.
I usually prefer to focus on the new and exciting, and while DSquared2’s denim for Fall 11 fits into neither category, I thought we should talk denim. The show was called “Brokeback Mormon” which I found inventive although that came across more in the accessories than the clothes and denim. About that – there is nothing new about indigo distressed jeans. Some achieved a greater intensity of indigo but the distressing took away from that. The silhouette provides more to discuss with very slim styles – the interest here falling to the hem where wrinkle treatments were used.
There were only a few different variations in cut aside from slim – the slight (and oh-so-slight) flare, the low-slung wide jeans worn with suspenders and a slouchy carrot style that tapered in at the hem. I would have liked to see more heavy weights applied and further exploration of the wide cut (more fitting to the theme) but then again this is DSquared2. If the jean fits..
I always enjoy a good shift in silhouette direction, and have always admired how Miuccia Prada tends to be on the forefront of new shapes. Last season she introduced the 3-button suit (and jacket) and already we’re seeing a lot more 3-button styles on the runways for Fall 11. Well this time around, Prada introduces a new, boxy silhouette for men. The most exaggerated styles appear slightly comical, but the shape works from knitwear to outerwear, especially when paired against cropped or slim tailored pants.
A few of the more boxy wearable options included oversized polos, the cropped 3-button jacket, and my favorite, the 70s-inspired “V” warm-up.
So today is the day that Nicola Formichetti will show his first collection for Thierry Mugler. I mentioned the topic last week when I talked about the skeleton tattooed model which Formichetti found on Facebook. Anyhow, the much anticipated show later today has been even more hyped based on the fact that images of the collection have been gradually released on the Thierry Mugler website, and the little factoid that Lady Gaga, whom Formichetti styles, is remixing a new never-heard-before track for the show. The title of the Fall 11 show, Anatomy of Change, also seems to add to the allure.
Filed under Celebrities/Models, Designer
A classic returns. The pea coat is spotted as a key outerwear style for Fall 11. Been there, done that? Try it in plaid!
Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry
Fashion has had its moments of 3D in the past (heck there’s also been 4-D), however up until now no one worked with James Lima (you know, of Avatar fame) on a fashion show. Although they say it’s the first 3-D fashion show, I believe Burberry had that title in February 10. NEVERTHELESS, the effect at Zegna looked pretty interesting.. as in I’m sure no model has ever appeared to have walked from the Great Wall of China onto a runway. The China connection was a celebration of Zegna’s 20th year of business in China. While the reference wasn’t reflected in excess on the surface, silky shirts, uniform jackets and utility belts nodded modestly to the Chinese Revolution.
Filed under Designer, Film, Inspiration, Runway, Technology
With a handful of the Milan menswear shows in, the turtleneck sweater quickly rises to the top. While the majority of styles don’t sway too far from ordinary, I love the doubled-up effect at Jil Sander, which was a nice way of injecting all that color.
Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana, Costume National
Jil Sander, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli
MENSWEAR 