One of my favorite details to come out of the Milan menswear shows was pieced construction. Yes, we’ve seen bits of this before – more recently in the form of leather inserts – but this time around there are more interesting pieced effects happening. In addition to mixed materials, we’re also seeing mixed patterns.
Z Zegna, Burberry, Neil Barrett
I also love pieced construction for sweaters, which gives a patchwork effect in the case of Corneliani below.
Last season we saw double breasted blazers impact tailoring and this season they move forward as a key suit direction. Exquisitely crafted peak lapels are a highlighted detail on some looks.
Costume National, Corneliani, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo
Shearling outerwear is having a moment. The shearling coat was singled out as a key item in the Fall 11 Milan shows and I particularly like the shearling pea coat at Gucci, which blends 2 season must-haves into 1.
Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo
Along the same lines, shearling trim – specifically collars – were shown, which will surely impact the young men’s market. Alexander McQueen had some stand out shearling collars featured on wool jackets and double breasted blazers.
Ermanno Scervino, Alexander McQueen, Alexander McQueen
The 70s have been showing up on the Milan runways as a major decade of reference for Fall 11. Here’s a look at who did it best.
Leave it to Frida Giannini at Gucci to bring back the 70s in full swing. My favorite here were the slim flared pants which worked in both suiting and casual looks. Suede applications also push the look forward.
And speaking of SUEDE – check out the suede pants at Ferragamo (there are also suede shirts). More important than that, I am loving the rust color palette.
More rust hues were featured at Cavalli, where the 3-piece suit made an entrance and more suede and flared pants are featured.
I usually prefer to focus on the new and exciting, and while DSquared2’s denim for Fall 11 fits into neither category, I thought we should talk denim. The show was called “Brokeback Mormon” which I found inventive although that came across more in the accessories than the clothes and denim. About that – there is nothing new about indigo distressed jeans. Some achieved a greater intensity of indigo but the distressing took away from that. The silhouette provides more to discuss with very slim styles – the interest here falling to the hem where wrinkle treatments were used.
There were only a few different variations in cut aside from slim – the slight (and oh-so-slight) flare, the low-slung wide jeans worn with suspenders and a slouchy carrot style that tapered in at the hem. I would have liked to see more heavy weights applied and further exploration of the wide cut (more fitting to the theme) but then again this is DSquared2. If the jean fits..
I always enjoy a good shift in silhouette direction, and have always admired how Miuccia Prada tends to be on the forefront of new shapes. Last season she introduced the 3-button suit (and jacket) and already we’re seeing a lot more 3-button styles on the runways for Fall 11. Well this time around, Prada introduces a new, boxy silhouette for men. The most exaggerated styles appear slightly comical, but the shape works from knitwear to outerwear, especially when paired against cropped or slim tailored pants.
A few of the more boxy wearable options included oversized polos, the cropped 3-button jacket, and my favorite, the 70s-inspired “V” warm-up.
So today is the day that Nicola Formichetti will show his first collection for Thierry Mugler. I mentioned the topic last week when I talked about the skeleton tattooed model which Formichetti found on Facebook. Anyhow, the much anticipated show later today has been even more hyped based on the fact that images of the collection have been gradually released on the Thierry Mugler website, and the little factoid that Lady Gaga, whom Formichetti styles, is remixing a new never-heard-before track for the show. The title of the Fall 11 show, Anatomy of Change, also seems to add to the allure.