Monthly Archives: January 2012

Neck and Neck

Prada is always a favored source of newness, with trends typically lasting well after they first march down the runway (see: 3 button blazer). For Fall 12, it seemed that the focus shifted to collar interest. Most forward were the high Edwardian collars which consisted of at least 3 layers.

But perhaps a more easily-adapted trend came in the form of contrast oversized collars which landed on coats.

Yet another point of difference is featured at Bottega Veneta, where contrast point collars appear on woven shirts.

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Outerwear Essentials from Milan

The Milan F12 menswear runways were packed with endless outerwear options. The parka, which has been a best-seller from Spring to Fall, comes out on top once again catering to the luxury market and youth centric brands.

Another classic is the pea coat. A velvet style at Gucci adds a dose of glamor.

Shearling becomes a favored expression for jackets and coats alike.

While puffer jackets and vests have long been a winter favorite, quilting becomes a key styling detail especially applied to outerwear.

In the tailored universe, the overcoat is key, set to a variety of materials from tweeds and wools to leather. Double breasted overcoats look forward.

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Good Things Come in 3’s

Followers of my blog may recall that I’ve mentioned the rise of the 3-button blazer since Prada did it back in Spring 11 and more recently last season. Here it comes AGAIN for Fall 12 becoming even more dominant in tailoring than before.

And while the double breasted suit is easily the most popular in Milan, the three piece suit makes a statement spanning both formal and casual styles.

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(K)nitwits in Milan

Although TAILORING has been a big focus in Milan this week, a handful of designers feature unexpected knitwear items, such as knit pants and/or meggings.

Knit blazers make for a relaxed tailored look especially at Missoni.

On a heavier note, sweater coats as well as the new cardi-coat (often a belted cardigan hybrid) factor in to outerwear.

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Fashion Voyeurism a la MUGLER

In case you’ve got nothing but time on your hands and/or are a really, really big fan of Nicola Formichetti’s Mugler, you probably don’t have time for this.

This is Fall 12 Mugler menswear, live-streaming pre and post collection on the brand’s Facebook page for 4 days (since Monday and until Thursday). Gaga is absent (so far) and I think we can all agree that it was time for a different approach after Mother Monster helped revive the brand (and deliver some new singles on the runway) last year. The genius of this crowdsourced concept is that up until now, no one has had their entire collection “on view” to the public in such a bold way (even if that means seeing rows of rolling racks). Reality TV shows could capture the madness only to a certain degree but this exposes much much more like set checks and rehearsals, IF you have the time and/or interest. When I checked in yesterday it was basically looking at them looking at boards and grabbing samples, set to a really good soundtrack.

Here’s what I think we could learn from this. Formichetti gets that fans want to be a part of Mugler. The live-streaming concept gives fans a sense of excitement and look into what goes into staging a runway show, with comment and sharing capabilities to generate buzz. Of course some parts are more exciting than others (and really you can’t see all that much since it’s shot in black and white). But being that voyeur at home tapping into what’s happening in less than 30 minutes before a runway show creates brand loyalty. And I’m willing to bet that that’s the exact audience shelling out cash for the Mugler fragrance.

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Introducing the Tribal Mountaineer

Ah yes it’s men’s runway season. Undoubtedly there are going to be collections set to outdoor themes because, let’s face it, that sort of look tends to be very commercial. But here’s something to get a little more excited about. Frankie Morello combines two loves – the great outdoors + tribal. The color palette includes shades of pumpkin and goldenrod, while the patterns – in either tribal or abstract geometrics really brought the vision to life. Embroidery and fringe serve as key details.

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Trending in Tailoring: Double Breasted Suits

More than a handful of Milanese designers favor the classic double breasted suit for Fall 12 as a key tailoring direction.

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