Category Archives: Denim

DENIM IMITATES FASHION @DenimByPV

There’s a major shift happening in denim for Fall-Winter 13/14, and a lot of it has to deal with what’s happening right now in Ready-To-Wear. And boy is it ever the right time.

As some of you may know, the Denim by Premiere Vision tradeshow was held just over 2 weeks ago in Paris. And while the event is always pivotal in surfacing denim trends long before they reach the market, there was something distinctive about the show this time around. You see, in the past few seasons there has been a lot of concern with the rising costs of cotton; harboring new blends but also alternatives such as CHINOS and new ways to position denim like SHIRTING.

This time around while most weavers were content to tout a RETURN TO DENIM (as opposed to the aforementioned chinos), treatments and finishes were introduced that bare a striking resemblance to what’s going on right now in fashion.

COATINGS become everything, with leather-like coatings leading the way. If you’ve been following runway trends in any estimation, you know that LEATHER is having a major moment well beyond the biker jacket and onto sportswear separates from tops to pants. The degree to which these coatings are used vary from all-over applications to those which still reveal the denim underneath.

METALLICS, which appeared prevalently on the Spring 12 women’s runways also make their way into the denim sector in the form of coatings. Extreme gold and silver applications are found along with more subtle GLITTER weaves and PEARLESCENT treatments, the later which bears similar resemblance to Chanel’s Spring 12 collection.

Probably one of the most expected trends to move forward is COLOR. There is no denying that color is a major factor at retailers right this second, and some brands – like J Brand – latched onto the trend early on. At last season’s Denim by Premiere Vision show, color was also a key trend, however it was expressed mainly on chinos. This time around, most weavers expand colored denim in season-appropriate ranges of olive, berry and goldenrod. DOUBLE FACED color also taps into the trend without going overboard.

If you’ve set foot in any retailer lately, you know that PRINTS (in addition to color) are everywhere. While printed denim has almost always been treated as novelty, there is no shortage of printed denim for Fall-Winter 13/14. In fact, new 3D expressions feature lamination and even flocking, just hinting at the plush trend in ready-to-wear.

Perhaps it is true that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. One might think so with a glance at these KNIT LIKE WOVENS. Of particular note, Candiani’s new fabric lies somewhere between a calvary twill and knit jersey.

While that concept was first introduced a few seasons ago, a newer expression comes in the form of NAPPY and TWEEDY fabrics. Normally when referring to a nappy fabric it’s only visible upon close inspection, but this time around, excessive naps populate denim and open the door to tweedy textures.

Admittedly, denim brands are only just starting to think about fabric for Fall-Winter 13/14 now and some of the trends mentioned above are skewed more towards womenswear. Nevertheless, I’m a firm believer that these new trend-driven developments are just what the market needs to get us all back to denim (whether it looks like it or not).

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Filed under Denim, Materials, Tradeshows

Swapping Jeans for Chinos @DenimByPV

Here’s the inside scoop on what went down at the recent Denim by Premiere Vision show held in Paris for Spring 13. (For the full report and more trends, check Fashion Snoops this week!) Those familiar with the show know that it’s THE most important tradeshow for denim.. a place where denim weavers and laundries present their latest developments to the who’s who of global denim brands. I’ve been covering the show and interviewing exhibitors ever since it started 9 seasons ago and I have to say the most recent show was in ways a departure from the rest. Why’s that? One of the most important trends to take away was NON-DENIM!

The message from the over 20 exhibitors that I met with was very similar. Everyone’s tired of indigo, so let’s bring in the alternatives. Chinos and Twills, which have been present at the show for the past 2 seasons explode into full-blown assortments.


Kuroki

Another option comes in the form of Gabardine and Herringbone. It should be noted that in many of the non-denim options, treatments and finishes which were previously applied to denim are now used on these alternative fabrics.


ITV

Another denim alternative is chambray. Yes we’ve seen it before on shirting, but this time around chambray expands into bottom weights as well.


Orta Anadolu

Another HUGE do-not-miss trend at the show was COLOR. There wasn’t one tone or shade that stood out from the rest, with the majority of exhibitors featuring a full range of brights. Color applies to both denim and non-denim, with countless ready-to-dye options. Sulfer dyes and pigment two-tone color are featured.


Royo


Tavex

Double faced fabrics also answer the call to color.


Bossa


Royo

Getting back to actual denim there are some new blues to be had. In fact, exhibitors typically featured a range of these blues from 70s tones to crayola blues and even pales. Looks like someone finally got the memo on the 70s trend in sportswear.


UCO Raymond


Tavex


Kuroki

Continuing along the same lines of newness, grey denim is also popular.


Orta Anadolu

Indigo doesn’t entirely disappear, with intense, saturated colors remaining.


Candiani

In terms of treatment and finishings, plasticized coatings are number one. Printed denim and non-denim becomes a new option which is sure to be a winner in the youth market.


Artistic Denim Mills


Dynamo

I should note that the S-T-R-E-T-C-H trend continues, with comfort stretch featured nearly everywhere. And for the jegging crowd, stretch progresses with new advancements for shape retention, i.e. no more sagging in the butt with wear. But perhaps the most interesting advancement above all is the ability to achieve knit-like wovens with new fabric technology. Isko and Bossa both featured these fabrics (along with some actual knit ones).. talk about taking comfort to the next level!


Isko

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Discussing Denim at DSquared2

I usually prefer to focus on the new and exciting, and while DSquared2’s denim for Fall 11 fits into neither category, I thought we should talk denim. The show was called “Brokeback Mormon” which I found inventive although that came across more in the accessories than the clothes and denim. About that – there is nothing new about indigo distressed jeans. Some achieved a greater intensity of indigo but the distressing took away from that. The silhouette provides more to discuss with very slim styles – the interest here falling to the hem where wrinkle treatments were used.

There were only a few different variations in cut aside from slim – the slight (and oh-so-slight) flare, the low-slung wide jeans worn with suspenders and a slouchy carrot style that tapered in at the hem. I would have liked to see more heavy weights applied and further exploration of the wide cut (more fitting to the theme) but then again this is DSquared2. If the jean fits..

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Filed under Denim, Designer, Runway

It’s A Wrap: Spring 12 Denim

Last month I gave a list of trends from the Denim by Premiere Vision show immediately after the show ended. Now my FULL ANALYSIS of the entire show is up on Fashion Snoops featuring a whopping 30 trends to satisfy all your denim needs for Spring 12. Here’s a rundown of my final Top 10, which are almost identical to what I posted right after the show. You saw it here first!

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In Review: Spring 12 Denim by Premiere Vision

Last week I spent 2 days at THE denim show of all denim shows, now in its 7th edition. The Spring 12 season of Denim by Premeire Vision was held at Halle Freyssinet in Paris, dubbed “Blueville”.

So, what’s new in denim? My #1 question to all the major weavers, laundries and garments & finishings companies yielded a somewhat ho-hum response. While there was some newness, there was a lot more of the same. On top of that, the topic of rising cotton costs was on everyone’s mind, and many estimated that the message won’t quite hit consumers until about 6 months from now. Candiani relayed the point best with a silent auction-like display featuring cotton wrapped in gold, as if to say how high will costs go?


Candiani’s “Cotton as Gold” Display

While Fashion Snoops’ subscribers will have total and exclusive access to interviews with Denim by Premiere Vision exhibitors including an upcoming trend report, here’s a list of my Top 10 points from the show.

1. Indigo

As we saw for Fall 11/12, indigo remains the most important expression of the Spring 12 season. Saturated indigo, green-casts, indigo coatings and high contrasts are all featured.


Vicunha


High Contrast Indigo, Tavex


Indigo Coating, Candiani


Green Cast Indigo, Bossa

2. Blends

Keeping in mind the rising cost of cotton, this season featured many cotton blends. Linen, Polyester, Tencel, Lyocell and Cupro were all common, many also adding stretch or soft hand properties which continue from last season.


Cotton/Linen Blend, Berto


Cotton/Polyester Blend, Matesa Tekstil


Cotton/Tencel/Elastane, Kipas


Organic Cotton/Recycled Cotton/Lyocell/Recycled Polyester, Denim Valley by Royo


Cotton/Viscose/Cupro/Elastane, Tavex

3. The Denim Alternatives

As we started to see last season, denim alternatives gain influence this season with the CHINO being a common extension from denim weavers. Twills become more popular.


Berto


Berto


Berto


ITV


Royo


Orta

5. In Living COLOR!

For those weavers who went into color this season, it proved to be a hit with buyers. Saturated brights and pastels were the boldest expressions, though other techniques to consider include colored wefts (as seen at Candiani) and coating on reverse yarns (at Bossa).


Royo


Vicunha


ITV


Ice Dye, Emmetre


Colored Weft, Candiani


Colored Coating on Reverse Yarns, Bossa

6. Desert Tones

Aside from the more vibrant color expressions, many weavers featured desert tones including ecru, beige, khaki, orange and brown.


ITV


Berto


Berto

7. Super Shirts

The continuation of both denim and chambray shirts means that denim weights stay on the light side – generally between 4 to 7oz. A few fresh ideas come from Lyocell applications, selvedge shirting (introduced at Bossa, sure to be a hit in the coming seasons) as well as check or plaid shirts with real indigo.


4oz Shirt, Indicott


Bossa


Chambray, Orta


Lyocell, Bossa


Selvedge Shirting, Bossa


Check with Indigo, Berto


Check with Indigo, Berto


Plaid with Indigo, Berto

8. Burnt to a Fine Crisp (Finish)

The words dry, crisp and paper-like are common expressions for a finish that takes wrinkle effects to a new level.


Arvind


Berto


Candiani


Candiani

9. I’ve Been Workin’ On The Railroad

Just when you thought workwear and heritage were a done deal, railroad stripes come up as a very popular trend.


Kipas


Sartex


Berto


Royo


Dynamo


Global Denim

10. Patched from Within

Last but not least, repaired techniques evolve into patches exposed from underneath applications.


Dynamo


Hellenic


Kuroki


Sartex

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Werk It: A.P.C. x Carhartt

The trend for heritage, Americana and workwear is still going strong, and Jean Touitou over at cool French brand A.P.C. is on top of it with a brand new collaboration with Carhartt. The A.P.C. x Carhartt capsule collection offers a tight selection of denim worker shirts and jackets, jeans, t-shirts (complete with a fancy new logo) and hats. In stores and online now.

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Filed under Brands, Collaborations, Denim

Tell Loren I Love Him

There’s a new denim shop in town. But it’s so much more than just a shop. Loren Cronk hails from the denim genius of Levi’s and Ralph Lauren and is an absolute denim guru/fanatic. His new (work)shop is located on the cusp of Brooklyn’s Williamsburg and Greenpoint neighborhoods. Inside there are racks of denim, sewing machines and an array of wash and finish treatments to choose from. Cronk finds inspiration in vintage denim, and you just might find recent vintage purchases hanging in store too. As if that’s not enough, he also collaborates with a bunch of local labels.

I like that we’re seeing more denim designers start their own companies like the previously mentioned Imogene + Willie. In both examples, these designers are branching out on their own (after many years of service to the denim giants) and what they’re doing is much more organic than saying this is the new IT denim brand. Both have cultivated a brand image that is distinctly theirs and speaks to authentic customization (without falling into the former trend for denim customization). The workshop environment also serves to cultivate a personal relationship between customer and designer that goes a long way while creating a new (favorite) pair of jeans.

Loren, 82 Nassau Ave., Brooklyn, NY

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Filed under Brands, Denim, Designer, Retail