In case you’ve got nothing but time on your hands and/or are a really, really big fan of Nicola Formichetti’s Mugler, you probably don’t have time for this.
This is Fall 12 Mugler menswear, live-streaming pre and post collection on the brand’s Facebook page for 4 days (since Monday and until Thursday). Gaga is absent (so far) and I think we can all agree that it was time for a different approach after Mother Monster helped revive the brand (and deliver some new singles on the runway) last year. The genius of this crowdsourced concept is that up until now, no one has had their entire collection “on view” to the public in such a bold way (even if that means seeing rows of rolling racks). Reality TV shows could capture the madness only to a certain degree but this exposes much much more like set checks and rehearsals, IF you have the time and/or interest. When I checked in yesterday it was basically looking at them looking at boards and grabbing samples, set to a really good soundtrack.
Here’s what I think we could learn from this. Formichetti gets that fans want to be a part of Mugler. The live-streaming concept gives fans a sense of excitement and look into what goes into staging a runway show, with comment and sharing capabilities to generate buzz. Of course some parts are more exciting than others (and really you can’t see all that much since it’s shot in black and white). But being that voyeur at home tapping into what’s happening in less than 30 minutes before a runway show creates brand loyalty. And I’m willing to bet that that’s the exact audience shelling out cash for the Mugler fragrance.
Ah yes it’s men’s runway season. Undoubtedly there are going to be collections set to outdoor themes because, let’s face it, that sort of look tends to be very commercial. But here’s something to get a little more excited about. Frankie Morello combines two loves – the great outdoors + tribal. The color palette includes shades of pumpkin and goldenrod, while the patterns – in either tribal or abstract geometrics really brought the vision to life. Embroidery and fringe serve as key details.
More than a handful of Milanese designers favor the classic double breasted suit for Fall 12 as a key tailoring direction.
Here’s something to cozy up to. Turtlenecks make a comeback for Fall 12 after checking out at retailers during Fall 11. Shawl collars, which have been emerging in knitwear find a home on shawl collar cardigans.
Thinking of capes, Fall 11 womenswear comes to mind, but certainly not menswear. That is until now. Admittedly this is a very FORWARD direction for Fall 12 and rest assured that more commercial hits are on the way. Dolce & Gabbana present capes next to their lavish baroque embellishment for a novelty expression. Speaking to the more commercial end, Ermenegildo Zegna incorporates shorter shapes set to an outdoors aesthetic, something a larger majority of retailers could relate to.
What Dolce & Gabbana had in mind for their Fall 12 collection “hymn to Italy” turned out to be a heavily utilized form of baroque embroidery inclusive of gold braiding. While the detailing appeared on virtually all items, it was perhaps best positioned alongside plush velvets.
As Milan Fashion Week kicks off for Fall 12, velvet quickly rises to the top as a must-have material expression. Velvet blazers, suits and pants are featured, while Dolce & Gabbana highlight velvet trim on tailored items.