On Tuesday, Chanel showed its Cruise 2011 runway show in none other than St. Tropez. Of course if you’ve been following my blogs you already know that this is also where he debuted his Remember Now 17-minute film.
The show was held at sunset in front of the popular Sénéquier cafe. The vibe of the show was very cool and youthful with models jumping off boats and then walking (mostly) barefoot onto the runway. The collection was had a very 60s-70s spirit to it and while it was mainly focused on womenswear, Karl has a little something in store for the guys. Bleached jeans, sheer multi-color printed shirts, white pants, cable knits and the color rust are all highlights. The collection hits stores in November.
The show was as star studded as one would expect (both on and off the runway) including Chanel ambassador Vanessa Paradis, Diane Kruger, Georgia May, and Crystal Renn and Karolina Kurkova who both walked the show. Gaspard Ulliel, from Chanel’s Fall fragrance campaign was also present.
LVMH’s Nowness is certainly on the video media trend. Last week Dior Homme launched a video called The White Room to celebrate the opening of the fist UK flagship in Westfield Center, London. Sharif Hamza directed the video and it was styled by Robbie Spencer. The video is staged in a stark white hallway, where attention is drawn to the brand’s long trench coat. Two men slowly stride down the hallway while melancholic music plays. Mysterious and sort of intriguing, it reminds me of a fragrance commercial.
Does the Brooks Brothers man blog?
A new collaboration between Brooks Brothers and men’s etiquette blog Social Primer begs the question. The result is a collection of 16 reversible bow ties launching May 19th to be followed by a Fall collection.
I think the line is great for the Brooks Brothers man, but the connection to Social Primer, I’m just not sure.. somehow I don’t picture such a distinguished BB man turning to the blogosphere for reference on manners, conversation or social etiquette (afterall, he’s already distinguished isn’t he?).
However I will say that we’re still in that period where most brands haven’t figured out how to market themselves in accordance with social media, and for now the gold standard remains Burberry’s Art of the Trench. I’m not sure how much new traffic will be generated to Brooks Brothers from Social Primer, but for the meantime I think these bow ties will do well at retail.
Lately it seems as if everyone is branching out from traditional ladies/mens stores into single-sex stores. In particular, the men-only concept seems to be gaining momentum.
I’ll attribute the start of this to the brilliant Tom Ford, who exactly 3 years ago opened his men-only emporium that evokes a a private club environment. The first Tom Ford flagship, stationed on New York’s Madison Avenue, is the ultimate vision of luxury and craftsmanship, with suits displayed behind glass like works of art. Tom Ford’s menswear now has around 10 flagships worldwide, if that’s any proof of its success.
This February, Hermès opened its first men’s-only store, Hermès Man on New York’s Madison Avenue, directly across from the women’s flagship. The entire men’s range is spread across four floors, and the intended experience is that of a walk-in closet.
Next up is Coach, who will be opening its first men’s-only store tomorrow on… you guessed it, Bleeker Street in New York. Up until this point, Coach’s menswear assortment has been sold alongside women’s product. The store’s merchandise assortment will include accessories, small leather goods, footwear, outerwear and watches, and will also serve as a test store for emerging collections.
J.Crew is planning on opening it’s fourth men’s store on New York’s Madison Avenue in August or September this year. The store is apparently the result of success felt through the first 3 men’s-only stores in NYC and NJ, and CEO Mickey Drexler has been quoted saying that the men’s-only stores are “beyond the test phase”.
In case you needed further proof that men-only shops are a big deal, I’ve heard that Ralph Lauren is also planning to transform the Rhinelander mansion into a shop for men… Men’s-only stores? Keep them on your radar.
Visionaire’s 58th issue, called “Spirit” is dedicated to Alexander McQueen with contributions from Nick Knight, Stephen Gan, Lady Gaga, Steven Meisel and more. The magazine will only print 1,500 copies for $295 each, and each issue comes in a special case, wrapped in metallic brocade from the Spring 2010 collection. The issue is due out in June, but you could see a preview here.
As I was going going through the depths of our seasonal analysis yesterday, I came across Byblos’ Fall 10 show and I couldn’t help but stop and think that there was striking resemblance to.. oh no they didn’t.. Alexander McQueen’s Fall 10 collection for men.
Byblos, Fall 10
Alexander McQueen, Fall 10
Right. So McQueen’s photo real computer generated chainmail takes on a slightly smaller pattern scale at Byblos, looking a little more line-driven versus intertwined braids. But they’re both shown in head-to-toe looks and in monochromatic browns.. Hmph.
April may be coming to an end but Burberry hopes for rainy days ahead. The brand just launched their newest capsule collection this past Thursday called Burberry April Showers, sold in stores and online. It including ladies, men’s and accessories. While the idea is clever (and who better to go to for a Spring trench), I can’t help but mention that any month-titled promotion (or collection in this case) should have well over 1 week sales time. May is for flowers, not showers.