In Review: Spring 12 Denim by Premiere Vision

Last week I spent 2 days at THE denim show of all denim shows, now in its 7th edition. The Spring 12 season of Denim by Premeire Vision was held at Halle Freyssinet in Paris, dubbed “Blueville”.

So, what’s new in denim? My #1 question to all the major weavers, laundries and garments & finishings companies yielded a somewhat ho-hum response. While there was some newness, there was a lot more of the same. On top of that, the topic of rising cotton costs was on everyone’s mind, and many estimated that the message won’t quite hit consumers until about 6 months from now. Candiani relayed the point best with a silent auction-like display featuring cotton wrapped in gold, as if to say how high will costs go?


Candiani’s “Cotton as Gold” Display

While Fashion Snoops’ subscribers will have total and exclusive access to interviews with Denim by Premiere Vision exhibitors including an upcoming trend report, here’s a list of my Top 10 points from the show.

1. Indigo

As we saw for Fall 11/12, indigo remains the most important expression of the Spring 12 season. Saturated indigo, green-casts, indigo coatings and high contrasts are all featured.


Vicunha


High Contrast Indigo, Tavex


Indigo Coating, Candiani


Green Cast Indigo, Bossa

2. Blends

Keeping in mind the rising cost of cotton, this season featured many cotton blends. Linen, Polyester, Tencel, Lyocell and Cupro were all common, many also adding stretch or soft hand properties which continue from last season.


Cotton/Linen Blend, Berto


Cotton/Polyester Blend, Matesa Tekstil


Cotton/Tencel/Elastane, Kipas


Organic Cotton/Recycled Cotton/Lyocell/Recycled Polyester, Denim Valley by Royo


Cotton/Viscose/Cupro/Elastane, Tavex

3. The Denim Alternatives

As we started to see last season, denim alternatives gain influence this season with the CHINO being a common extension from denim weavers. Twills become more popular.


Berto


Berto


Berto


ITV


Royo


Orta

5. In Living COLOR!

For those weavers who went into color this season, it proved to be a hit with buyers. Saturated brights and pastels were the boldest expressions, though other techniques to consider include colored wefts (as seen at Candiani) and coating on reverse yarns (at Bossa).


Royo


Vicunha


ITV


Ice Dye, Emmetre


Colored Weft, Candiani


Colored Coating on Reverse Yarns, Bossa

6. Desert Tones

Aside from the more vibrant color expressions, many weavers featured desert tones including ecru, beige, khaki, orange and brown.


ITV


Berto


Berto

7. Super Shirts

The continuation of both denim and chambray shirts means that denim weights stay on the light side – generally between 4 to 7oz. A few fresh ideas come from Lyocell applications, selvedge shirting (introduced at Bossa, sure to be a hit in the coming seasons) as well as check or plaid shirts with real indigo.


4oz Shirt, Indicott


Bossa


Chambray, Orta


Lyocell, Bossa


Selvedge Shirting, Bossa


Check with Indigo, Berto


Check with Indigo, Berto


Plaid with Indigo, Berto

8. Burnt to a Fine Crisp (Finish)

The words dry, crisp and paper-like are common expressions for a finish that takes wrinkle effects to a new level.


Arvind


Berto


Candiani


Candiani

9. I’ve Been Workin’ On The Railroad

Just when you thought workwear and heritage were a done deal, railroad stripes come up as a very popular trend.


Kipas


Sartex


Berto


Royo


Dynamo


Global Denim

10. Patched from Within

Last but not least, repaired techniques evolve into patches exposed from underneath applications.


Dynamo


Hellenic


Kuroki


Sartex

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