On Sunday, the final day of the festival, I was able to meet with a handful of designers in the showroom spaces set up at Villa Noailles, though to my dismay, many of them only had a few pieces from their collections as the rest were in the city center for the final runway presentation. The show featured all 10 of this year’s designers as well as 2 of last year’s winners.
Below is a brief on all the menswear designers, starting with the 2010 winners (which were for womenswear).
AND THE WINNER IS.. Alexandra Verschueren!
Alexandra Verschueren recently graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp and she lives and works in Belgium. Her womenswear collection is inspired by German artist Thomas Demand’s cardboard illustrations. Japanese origami is a strong reference point that comes to life with cut-outs and 3D folds. The unusual shapes make for an interesting study of volume and texture. Alexandra takes home the L’Oréal Professional Grand Prize for the 25th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography with €15,000. While I like the idea behind the collection, I don’t think I’m the only one who was a bit surprised by her winning the competition!
THE PUBLIC PRIZE WINNER.. Tsolmandakh Munkhuu
Paris-based Mongolian designer Tsolmandakh Munkhuu won the Public Prize. The last of this year’s designers to show on the runway, I think everyone in the audience was wowed by this collection. For starters, the models were painted black, in a way I for one have never seen body paint done before. The effect was mesmerizing and made the all-black collection even more enticing (note that the photos below don’t do it justice!). The Mongolian born designer now lives in Paris. Her clothes involve elements of Buddhist culture, such as motifs of skeletons and skulls embroidered or cut out in materials. Volumes are met with exquisite details such as pleating, applique and layering. Monks attire and the use of shapes in car air filters also serve as inspiration.
Here’s a glimpse at the other menswear designers.
Jasper Sinchai Chadprajong
London-based designer Jasper Sinchai Chadprajong lives and works in London. His collection tells a love story – for example denim may look like denim but it’s really not. Innocent, pure and translucent notions are explored.
Nada van Dalen
Rotterdam based Nada van Dalen’s collection was inspired by her stay in Berlin whereby the city has tried to erase its scars and repair itself. Nada used the angular lines of her design to serve as a metaphor for our path in life in her womenswear and menswear. Scribbles on t-shirts, holes or gaps in clothing are common.
Brussels trained designer Lucile Puton is based in Paris. Her menswear silhouette explores soft and enveloping padded shapes and rounded shoulders. Ropes and harnesses set out to add structure. Embroideries are borrowed from North American Indians.
Isabel Mastache Martinez
Designer Isabel Mastache Martinez is based in Galicia, Spain. Her collection involves the ethnic traditions of central Europe, India and Galicia. This results in an explosion of colors, patterns and shapes. Woolen blankets, mohair, Liberty prints and saris are reassembled.
Stay tuned for Fashion Snoops’ complete coverage on Festival Hyères, including more photos and information on all the designers and artists.